By Sophie Steiner
They say that imitation is the highest form of flattery, but what happens when you are imitating yourself Three Michelin Star chef Eric Pras has created a replica of his culinary legacy of a restaurant,Maison Lameloise, in Shanghai Tower – with the exact same name.
When you have perfection, why change the recipe?
Image courtesy of Maison Lameloise
The original Maison Lameloise is located in Chagny, Burgundy, France (population 5,600) and has existed for nearly 100 years, opening its doors to the first customers back in 1921 as both a hotel and a restaurant.
The role of the restaurant’s chef stayed within the family for three generations, from Pierre Lameloise to Jean Lameloise to the famous Jacques Lameloise, who achieved three Michelin stars in 1979.
Image courtesy of Maison Lameloise
In 2008, Eric Pras was invited to join the team – a chef boasting a career of remarkable Michelin pedigree (starting at the tender age of 15he had worked with Michel Troisgros, Bernard Loiseau, Pierre Gagnaire and Régis Marcon,all chefs with three-star restaurants).
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Pras learned from, and was mentored directly by Jacques, allowing Maison Lameloise to fully retain the three Michelin star status, not an easy feat when bringing on a new chef.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
With the restaurant in Chagny flourishing, Chef Pras sought something bigger. So, in 2015, he gathered a team together and started the project of opening his first restaurant outside France, a second replicated location in the most Shanghaiest of places – the iconic Shanghai Tower.
Heard of it?
Image by Nicky Almasy/That's
They found themselves in an entirely empty space, with a need to design everything – kitchen layout, restaurant arrangement, wine selection, tableware and décor.
Image courtesy of Maison Lameloise
From carpet to ceiling the restaurant was built with the atmosphere of the Chagny restaurant in mind; small touches, such as the same ceramic starter plates made by the same French artisan still rest on the tables upon arrival.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The overall goal of the restaurant was quite simple: create as close to identical restaurant experiences at Maison Lameloise so that whether you’re in Chagny or Shanghai, the concept, atmosphere, service and quality of food are all the same.
Image courtesy of Maison Lameloise
Chef Yann Klein has been entrusted to continue Pras』 legacy in Shanghai, as his boots on the ground – or in the clouds, in this case – sourcing 70% of ingredients from China, and working them into French fine dining, with an emphasis on Burgundy style.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The restaurant concentrates efforts on maintaining sustainable practices to create minimal wastage. From fried fish scales for extra crunch to deep fried eggplant skin garnish, the absolute minimum is going in the trash.
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The seasonally updated Le Grand Menu (RMB2,388) is as grand as the menu’s name suggests, with five courses, plus a selection of amuse-bouche and desserts, while Le Menu Dégustation (RMB1,888) is four different courses, plus amuse-bouche and desserts.
Lunch presents diners with Le Menu du Déjeuner (RMB588/3 courses, RMB888/4 courses) and Le Menu Dégustation (RMB1,588/3 courses), with the same inclusions.
Not feeling a set menu? Opt for any of the a la carte options to build your own cohesive meal. And make sure to come back regularly as the selections are fully overhauled and revamped seasonally.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
We stopped in to check out the most recent winter menu– here’s a smattering of what you can expect during your next visit.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The amuse-bouche consists of foie gras lollipops, dipped in cocoa butter, sprinkled with roasted almond slivers and a trickle of mango jelly and passion fruit for a creamy morsel that melts like – well – cocoa butter.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Other nibbles arrive next, like razor clams atop fennel purée with cubed cucumber and green apple, and a crispy Hong Kong bubble waffle stuffed with snail béchamel dipped in a warm saffron aioli.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A taco of sorts, made from chestnut flour, holds avocado cream and marinated shrimp for a refreshing bite.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Resting on a salad of green lentils, thin whorls of honey and soy-marinated and roasted duck fillets are adorned with a perfectly symmetrical quenelle of foie gras cream as the Duck, Beetroot & Plums.
Drizzled with a tart apple vinaigrette, a lentil salad anchors a trio of beetroot declination – raw, marinated and drizzled as a bright pink sauce – elevated by wheels of sour plums and a crisp spelt tuille.
Mushroom Reduction,Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A tribute to the restaurant’s signature dish in Chagny, the Snails & Bamboo is an homage to a traditional Burgundy dish made of snails, garlic and parsley. Soft herb dumplings are stuffed with potagère of vegetables and snails, flecked with crispy snail and parsley powder.
Expertly seared knobs of seared octopus are interlaced with green parsley chips, garnished with frisée and edible flowers. An herbaceous snail sauce dotted with licorice bouillon brightens the plate in both hue and heft.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Cooked rustically meuniere style, with juniper and a pochousesauce (based on the traditional Burgundy fish stew), the Pike Perch & Pike is flanked by seared pike mousse bread, velvety sunchoke purée, a delicate sunchoke spinach roll and dollops of tart 'raisine' made from a combination of dried and fresh grapes paired with anchovies and white wine.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Sourced from Yunnan, the Suckling Pig is presented in four variations – the rack, chop, tenderloin and a fritter made from caramelized head and foot.
Flanked by a textural palette of pumpkin, squash and sweet potato – rolled in whirls, fried to a crunch, mashed and piped in creamy dollops and squiggled into spaghetti – the plate is dribbled with a mustard seed and coffee jus reduction.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
After such bold flavors, a pre-dessert palate cleanser arrives – roasted rye flour ice cream atop a square of apple caramel bordered by frozen grapes sitting in an apple and grape juice glaze.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
A crispy tuille of chestnut encircles soft biscuit, filled with kumquat marmalade, chestnut cream and chestnut purée in the form of a Chestnut Mont Blanc. Topped with chestnut ice cream, chestnut jellies and a bubbly chestnut foam, this product-focused dish zeroes in on this nutty winter favorite.
Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
The mantra 「tradition is innovation」 is what has developed Maison Lameloise into the powerhouse brand that it is today; the aim is to always be moving forward, always asking questions, always striving towards improvement and – ultimately – perfection.
The dishes scream innovation, living this philosophy of following timeless, classic French traditions while still evolving.
Maison Lameloise,68/F, Shanghai Tower, No. 501 Yin Cheng Middle Road,浦東新區銀城中路501號上海中心大廈68樓6881 6789
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]
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