ThatsShanghai - Pizzeria S: Scarpetta’s Casual Sister Restaurant Focuses on 『Za－鑽石舞台

By Sophie Steiner

The Place

Shanghai institution Scarpetta is branching out with a new sister restaurant, Pizzeria S. The boutique venue on the North Bund, in the style of Southern Italian island Capri with a hint of Japanese influence, offers limited seats for lunch and dinner.

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The bar curves round to the open pizza kitchen, allowing diners to witness the magic, taking in the yeasty scent of rolled out dough and bubbling cheese. Further along the bar, guests can sip on aperitivi or digestivi, depending on the time of day.

Outfitted in warm hues of cream and dusty rose, light wood accents and plants abound. The domed ceilings– inspired by Italian cathedral architecture–add to the airy feel, with views of the Huangpu River.

The Food

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No name trickery here – the restaurant focuses on pizza, with two upgraded state-of-the-art pizza ovens affording each pie’s crust the ideal balance between crispy and light. There is some overlap with Scarpetta's menu, but quite a few new lighter plates, fitting the brightly lit, café-style space.

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The pizzas don't follow one particular 'style' but rather are an amalgamation of styles from Italy and California; the crust is noticeably crispy, airy and light.

With a tangy red sauce base, the Fennel Sausage & N』duja (RMB138) sees the addition of pickled pepper and smoked mozzarella.

The crust to topping ratio seemed a bit off during our visit, but we will chalk it up to soft opening growing pains, and would still gladly return for more of that spicy sausage.

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Inspired by Patrick Leano’s (the previous chef at Scarpetta) Vongole & Vongole, the Clam & Garlic (RMB188) is studded with baby clams, a clam chowder béchamel, confit garlic, crispy pancetta, a sprinkle of lemon rind and chili flakes for one of the most curiously addicting pizzas Shanghai has ever seen.

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But let's rewind a second.

Before you dive into the pizzas, we suggest starting instead with the refreshingly light Red Prawn Crudo (RMB98) with a lashing of basil pesto, olive oil and lemon that adds an herbaceous brightness.

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Creamy ricotta cheese encircles pumpkin purée as the Ricotta & Pumpkin (RMB88), studded with pumpkin seeds, parmesan crisps and a balsamic drizzle.

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For one of the newest offerings, unavailable at Scarpetta, the Orange Ricotta Ravioli (RMB128) is sprinkled with candied orange flecks, a sweet citrus pop that enhances the pillows of al dente pasta and stewed Italian five spice pork.

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For all the coffee-aholics, the XO Patron Tiramisu (RMB78), available at both Pizzeria S and Scarpetta, satisfies those caffeinated cravings, matched with an extra strong hit of chocolate and tequila.

Soaked in Patron Café, the agave sweet booziness is balanced by the luscious layers of whipped zabaglione – or heated egg yolk and sugar cream – Italian biscuits and single origin shaved chocolate on top.

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A subtly sweet dessert option involves the Vanilla Panna Cotta (RMB78), delicately trembly, topped with a swirl of berry compote and fresh seasonal berries.

The Vibe

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Casual and comfortable, the space has a bistro atmosphere, reminiscent of a beach town café in Italy.

The well-trained staff come from a Coquille and Scarpetta fine dining background, offering multi-lingual recommendations from the menu.

With floor-to-ceiling windows allowing diners to bask in the sunlight, it makes for a comfortable spot to enjoy a long and lazy lunch, followed by a digestivo, or two.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's